A Calusa Lodge Holiday:

Matt and Jennifer are professionals living in Miami.
Matt had been paging through the latest issue of his sport fishing magazine when he saw an ad for the Calusa Lodge. From the ad’s description Matt guessed that this small, private, secluded resort represented an opportunity for both romance and adventure.

Matt had often dreamed of owning a small waterfront cottage with a pool and a flats boat out back for weekend getaways. It would be a great change of pace compared to his urban condo lifestyle. It was only a dream because Matt knew that he couldn’t get away enough to enjoy a vacation home. The Calusa Lodge seemed to offer the fulfillment of his weekend dreams without the hassle.

Matt knew Jen would enjoy the private pool, the spa and the boating and she would definitely appreciate the quality time they would have together. She would see this as a romantic sensual weekend. Also, the fishing would be world class.

They left for Pine Island early one Friday afternoon, looking forward to the trip across the Everglades. Not long after leaving the glades, they found themselves driving through the historic villages of Matlacha, the entry point to Pine Island. The bright tropical colors of the little shops, restaurants and art galleries of Matlacha quickly let them know that they had arrived in old Florida. They could feel their bio-clocks being reset to island time. They drove south after leaving Matlacha, realizing that the rural island countryside was truly a world away from their life in Dade County. As they drove by ranches, palm plantations and nature preserves they noticed the paved bike path along the side of the road that travels the 18-mile length of Pine Island. Matt was looking forward to taking a bike ride.

They soon arrived in the sleepy village of St. James City and after passing quaint restaurants, shops and a real old-fashioned general store; they found the Calusa Lodge in the heart of town. They parked under the porte cochere and as they approached the front desk in the main building’s little lobby they were greeted by the hostess who also guessed their names correctly.

The hostess took them upstairs via the elevator next to the front desk. They sat down in club chairs while Melany, the hostess, explained that she would act as their concierge. She could arrange for a dinner served in Matt and Jen’s cottage, dinner in the private dining area adjacent to the guest lounge, reservations at the local restaurants or a dinner cruise to one of the many waterfront restaurants on Sanibel, Captiva, and Pine Island. She could schedule excursions to Mondongo Rocks, Captiva, or Cayo Costa. Appointments could be made with guides for inshore, backwater and offshore fishing. If the winds were good, a sailboat could be chartered for day sailing.

Melany went on to explain that they would find their own private spa and garden room poolside below their cottage. Matt and Jen could arrange for private spa services in the garden room including massage, facial and aromatherapy sessions.

The hotel could provide guests with dockside kayaks and small skiffs or infatables to explore the canals and miles of nearby backwaters. Bicycles would be available for onshore exploration.
Matt and Jennifer made some quick choices for their itinerary and they were dispatched across a wooden bridge leading into a jungle of palms. To the left below the trees, lush tropical vegetation grew up a mound to stone walls partially exposed above the foliage at the top of the mound. Above the stone walls, resting on stilts were pastel colored cottages with tin roofs. These cottages looked to be accessible only by this bridge and through the trees.

Before they started across the bridge, Melany had told Matt and Jen the legend of Ponce DeLeon was convinced that the Calusa had these fountains of youth in their villages and it was the water that made them so healthy and powerful. The Calusa made their homes adjacent to the fresh water artesian wells and springs located on Pine Island. All of the water used at the Calusa Lodge comes from this same Pine Island aquifer.

Matt and Jennifer had rented the King’s cottage and as they walked across the bridge to the yellow cottage between the trees it felt like they were entering a lush private world. When they entered the cottage they found that their bags had already been delivered. The cottage’s interior had an island decor reminiscent of Caribbean design. The 9’ high ceilings gave the first floor a great-room feel given the open kitchen and living area. A small bath and stairs leading up to the bedroom suite completed the room. They climbed the stairs to find a canopy bed complete with sheer netting surrounding it. The upstairs bath had a multi-head steam and mist shower that would provide a rainforest experience. There were porches on the East and West sides of the upstairs with comfortable wicker chairs, perfect for watching sunrises and sunsets.

They found the stairs from the rear of the first floor of their cottage to the private pool deck and garden room below. The pool would be their first stop that afternoon. Matt found that the pool was actually connected via a small waterfall to an adjacent lap pool below. The lap pool had a current running from North to South and he discovered that he could get workout swimming without going very far. They would save a soak in the garden room hot tub for later, as they spend the late afternoon relaxing poolside with cold beverages provided by the hotel staff. Even the terry cloth beach towels and robes provided by the lodge were luxuriant.

Late afternoon included some sightseeing by bicycle and a lazy trip by skiff down the canal to the St. James creek, a backwater nature preserve where the quiet was only broken by the occasional stir of a soft breeze through the mangrove tunnels or the sounds of herons or pelicans splashing as they worked the shallow waters hunting fish. Above them an eagle circled also looking for its evening meal. They floated silently for a while taking in the splendor of their moments in nature. Matt made mental notes of what he saw scouting the area for future kayak fishing of these tranquil waters.

Nightfall found them on the cozy porch of their cottage where they ordered room service (grilled shrimp and scallops on skewers with wedges of mango and pineapple) along with a bottle of good California Pinot Grigio that they would eventually finish as they relaxed in their garden spa, soaking in the warmth of the water that contrasted with the cool night air, bathed in light from the moon and stars above.

Saturday morning found them up early and out on the bikes for quick 5-mile wake-up ride followed by a refreshing swim and poolside coffee and rolls.

Late morning brought a high tide and Matt had made arrangements for a guide and flats boat to fish backwaters. 10 am found him fly-fishing under the mangrove branches as Captain Bob poled the boat along giving him pointers on where to look for fish and on his casting technique. Captain Bob also showed Matt how to use the portable handheld GPS unit provided by the lodge, including waypoints to local fishing holes so Matt could find his way in the future without the guide’s assistance.

Meanwhile, Jen was enjoying her own private day spa in the garden room. She had arranged for full package of spa services including a massage, facial, manicure and pedicure followed by an afternoon nap while she was infused with the tropical scents of her aromatherapy session.

Mid-afternoon brought Matt’s return with his charter guide. Although, he was empty handed, he had caught and released a large snook, which had given him a good fight, leaping several times in the air before the snook had tired. Given that he found Jen napping by the pool, Matt decided to hit the water again, this time with a kayak and his fly rod. Matt paddled out the canal and South toward San Carlos bay and Picnic Island. Several dolphins followed along with him for while checking out the kayak while rolling and playing in the water.

Matt drifted along an oyster bar for a while chasing tailing red fish in the shallow waters. He managed a strike on his fly but the big red got away. After enjoying the solitude of being alone on the water in the kayak, he returned to the lodge later that afternoon in time to take a quick swim and get ready for dinner.

Their plans that evening included a dinner cruise with several other guests to the Old Captiva Inn at the ‘Tween Waters Marina just North of Sanibel. They had an early dinner; both choosing grouper served over fresh vegetables and wild rice. After an enjoyable meal and brief walk around Captiva they were back on board the boat and found themselves out on Pine Island Sound enjoying champagne and strawberries as they watched the sun sink to the horizon. Sunset brought on a fury of colors in the sky but they missed that elusive green flash. It was the perfect ending to a beautiful day.

Sunday morning they were up early again copying yesterday’s routine of a brisk bike ride and swim prior to a poolside breakfast. They had arranged to go on a daytrip abroad the lodge’s picnic boat. They were taken out to Mondongo Rocks, a private preserve for hotel guests located at the North end of Pine Island Sound overlooking Charlotte Harbor.

Mondongo Rocks is a group of small islands and sandbars dotting over a mile of grass flats and deep-water channels in the Sound. They entered a small cove of a mangrove island and docked along side the hotel’s rustic houseboat. From there Jen and Matt took a small inflatable with an electric motor to explore the Mangrove Islands. They crossed the intercoastal waterway and beached their vessel on Cayo Costa, an island preserve owned by the state with miles of deserted beaches. There they swam in the surf and later walked the beach as Jen collected shells and Matt tried fishing the water’s edge.

 After leaving Cayo Costa, they headed for Cabbage Key for lunch of cheeseburgers in paradise (Cabbage Key is the place where Jimmy Buffet wrote the song) and key lime pie.

 They returned to the houseboat to switch vessels and try sailing in Charlotte Harbor in small two-person sailboat. Their sailing skills left something to be desired which probably enhanced their fun as they almost capsized several times. They ended up motoring back to their mother ship for the journey back to the lodge. After taking a fresh water outdoor shower on the houseboat and drying off, Jen would be ready for the ride back.

While Jen showered and freshened up, Matt decided to take a kayak out to the edge of nearby grass flats and practice his fly-casting. On his first cast he jumped a large tarpon. The 5-½ silver scaled fish leaped again and seemed to dance on the water on his tail. He then took off toward deeper water starling Matt as he and the kayak were pulled along for the ride. The tarpon turned and leaped again, this time toward Matt. As the fish reached the zenith of its jump it spit the fly back at Matt then disappeared below the surface. It took the whole way back to the houseboat for Matt to catch his breath and compose himself. Although the event lasted only 30 seconds it was one huge adrenaline rush and for a moment it felt to him as if maybe the fish had caught him instead.

When Matt returned to the houseboat Jen started teasing him about the frightened look on his face when tarpon started pulling him. She was amazed at how the tarpon seemed to hang in the air and how the sunlight reflected like mirrors on silver king’s scales. She had never seen such a beautiful fish. Unfortunately, the event escaped a camera’s lens but they would have “fish that got away” story to retell again and again.

Matt and Jen got back to the lodge in time to take a swim before dinner. As they dried off poolside in lounge chairs catching the soft warm rays of late afternoon sun between the shadows of royal palms bordering the pool, they couldn’t have felt more relaxed. The soft sounds of falling water and the gentle breeze through the palm fronds lulled them to sleep. Their nap was cut short by the sounds of nature. Several pelicans had crashed into the canal making loud pops. Gulls were squawking as they fought for position over the water. A snook shot out of the water and landed with big splash. A school of bait fish moving up the canal had been spotted by the locals and the birds were having a noisy dinner. Matt was ready to get his fishing pole but instead decided to pause and just watch the live nature show being put on in the canal in front of him. A moment passed and the frenzy was over leaving only the two pelicans quietly floating in the canal, perhaps dazed from hitting the water so hard. As they were leaving the pool deck, Jen suggested that it was believable that the Calusa could have lived there in the past and perhaps there was something to the magic waters and the fountain of youth.

 Matt and Jen walked across the street for dinner at the Lobster Shack that evening. The place was small and quaint and the atmosphere was intimate and food was great. They shared fresh lobster, crab, and scallops, pasta and asparagus.

 After dinner as they were walking back, they heard live music coming from down the street. They decided to investigate and found a number of people gathered in the gravel parking lot of the old-time island hardware store. They were told that free concerts are held there Sunday nights. They listened to the music for a while and then headed to the Calusa’s private lounge.

 When they got off the elevator and entered the lounge they found several groups of guests having drinks while steel drum music played in the background. Matt played bartender and mixed two tall tropical drinks at the do-it-yourself bar. Before long they found themselves on the porch deck of the lounge dancing in the moonlight to the music of Van Morrison.

They slept late the next morning and had breakfast in bed. Matt powered up his laptop for the first time this weekend and quickly got a wireless signal but before he entered his password, he signed off. Monday can wait. And besides, they had chartered a boat ride for 10:00 am. They were to leave their bags at the front door and Melany would sure that the car was packed and ready to go whenever they got back.

Matt brought some coffee with the boat, but once they were up on plane cruising between the channel markers heading for the Sanibel Bridge and the Gulf, the fresh air woke him up without the aid of more caffeine. The sky was an absolute blue and the sun seemed to turn the water ahead of them to quicksilver. As they shot across the tops of the small waves, a dolphin played for a while in the wake of the white froth behind the boat. After looking for tarpon schools rolling along the beaches they anchored in the clear aquamarine water off Sanibel’s Lighthouse Point for some swimming and snorkeling.

Matt and Jen showered and got dressed aboard before they reached the dock. They stopped to say thank you to Melany on their way out and promised to come back again soon. Their car was waiting for them under the porte cochere having magically reappeared where they had left it Friday afternoon.

They stopped in Matlacha before leaving the island where they visited the art galleries and shops. Matt couldn’t talk Jen out of buying matching Pine Island t-shirts. They found a restaurant with outdoor dining where they could watch the parade of boats go by and Matt could track the fishing activities on the Matlacha bridge. And the fresh grouper sandwiches were good too.

As Matt and Jen were crossing the Everglades they to be leaving the sun behind them as the sun settled in the West. Also left behind was an island paradise that they had just begun to explore. Many trips back would be needed. Jen asked, “What are we doing next weekend?”